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MEMORABLE TRIPE MEALS

THE SYDNEY TRIPE SOCIETY

LUNCH AT SALVATORE ZOFREA'S STUDIO IN SEAFORTH

(I)

THIS is a new section to the Tripe Site (tripesite.com). It follows from a lunch organised in June 2003 at the studio of the distinguished Australian painter, Salvatore Zofrea, following another lunch a month or so earlier at the Darrochs at Bondi.

At this latter family occasion the subject of tripe (and the tripe site) was raised, and Sal talked about his passionate interest in tripe. He invited some of those present to come to his studio where he would put on a tripe lunch, featuring one of his mother's tripe recipes.

Derry Simonds and the Darrochs, along with others, had been holding - as this site has chronicled - informal tripe lunches for some time, inviting other aficionados along as convenience and serendipity occasioned.

So it was arranged that a small group of tripe addicts be gathered together for the autumn lunch at Sal's. It turned out to be an outstanding success, and it was agreed at the lunch that we should told more such occasions.

Several of those involved, such as the Calders, Fitzhenrys and their friends, had already been holding an informal "Annual Tripe Party". Noting that there is an "official" NSW Tripe Club (again, as this site testifies to), we have decided to name of our new group "The Sydney Tripe Society" (akin, if you like, to the Live Poets' Society

We also decided to publish the "proceedings" of the new society on our tripesite, and the first such report appears below.

These reports will take a similar form to the reports of "memorable meals" once included in a famous food and wine magazine published in the 1950s (at least that is the period covered in the little bundle of them found in the Vinnies shop in Bondi) by Andre Simon, the (late) renowned gastronome and wine expert.

Here, then, is the report of our new Society's initial Memorable Tripe Meal:

LUNCH AT THE STUDIO OF SALVATORE ZOFREA (Sunday, June 8, 2003)

HOSTS: Salvatore Zofrea & Stephanie Claire

VENUE: Salvatore's studio in Seaforth, Sydney

GUESTS: Robert & Sandra Darroch, David & Jane Rothschild; Howard & Lillian Vains, Mike & Rosemary Calder; Derry Simonds; John Malcolm; Dan & Tracey Fitzhenry; Ian & Erica Pullar (all of Sydney)

WINE:

(whites) Brown's of Padthaway (Padthaway, SA) 1998 Reisling (5 bronze); Terrace Vale (Pokolbin, NSW) 2001 Campbell's Orchard Block Semillon (1 gold, 1 bronze)

(reds) Darling Park (Mornington Peninsula, Vic) 2000 Estate Merlot; Mount Pleasant (Pokolbin, NSW) 1999 Old Paddock/Old Hill Shiraz (I gold); Seppelt (Victorian Premium Reserve) 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon; Brian McGuigan (Hunter, NSW) 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon (2 silver, I bronze); Wynns Coonawarra Estate (Coonawarra, SA) 1999 Shiraz; Wynns Coonawarra Estate (Coonawarra, SA) 2000 Cabernet Shiraz Merlot ( "Red Wine of the Year" 2001)

THE FARE: Calabrian tripe ragout, red-cooked pig's tripe with ginger, Italian tripe stew; tripe and oxtail stew, boiled potatoes, salad (the dessert was Sicilian orange cake and cream)

(The Salon de Refusees had haggis and neaps, roast chicken salad, liver ragout)

This was the inaugural lunch of what was planned to become an irregular but continuing series of tripe occasions designed to provide a format, or excuse, for the exploration and enjoyment of the delights and variety of tripe. It could not have been a better launching pad.

The day and the setting were superb. On yet another beautiful Sydney autumn day, the sky clear and bright, the wind from the west, the party gathered in the lofty studio of one of Australia's leading contemporary artists, Salvatore Zofrea, where he and his partner Stephanie Claire had set up a dining table surrounded by portraits and commissions in progress - much as a similar group may have done in Giotto's studio in Florence in the 15th century (Sal is a great admirer of Giotto, and has himself executed a number of modern frescos).

Sal, a gourmet as well as a painter, had promised to cook his Calabrian tripe ragout, and several of the guests, most of them tripe aficionados (or tripeophiles, as perhaps we will call them in future), had brought along their own tripe dishes to add to the feast (see recipe details below). (These additional dishes were "tasting" dishes, meant to augment the primary fare - satellites, as it were, to the central meal.)

As well, other fare has been prepared for those of the party yet to be converted to tripe, a group to whom, given the setting, the name "salon de refusees" has been attached. For them, Sal had also prepared another dish from his Italian repertoire, liver cooked in red wine and tomatoes. Robert Darroch had also brought along a haggis intended to tempt and hopefully lure the refusees into the delights of offal (a "halfway to tripe" dish, as he described it). It was gratifying to see some of the refusees gingerly trying some of the tripe dishes, and even expressing some tentative enjoyment in doing so.

Sal's Calabrian tripe was much admired, being a mildly-spiced tripe stew prepared with tomato paste, chilli (sparingly) and tomatoes. This is how he introduced it:

"WHEN we lived in Borgia, Calabria, my mother would occasionally cook tripe. She had a cousin who was a butcher and if he killed a young goat he would call by our house and give her fresh liver and tripe. This was a great delicacy for all of our family."

CALABRESI TRIPE

1.5 kg honeycomb tripe
1 small brown onion - chopped
2 cloves garlic
1 bayleaf
1.5 tablespoon olive oil
2 x tins crushed tomatoes (or whole tomatoes, chopped)
1 small hot red chilli - chopped
handful of grated peccorino or parmesan cheese
salt to taste.

1. wash and remove excess water from pockets
2. cut tripe into strips approx 1/2 inch wide, place in a bowl.
3. Put the chopped onion, garlic, bayleaf, oil and chilli in a saucepan and lightly fry for approx. 2 minutes
4. Add tripe, stir for approx 2 - 3 minutes
5. Pour in the tins of tomatoes
6. Bring to boil, let simmer for approx. 40 minutes
7. Add salt to taste. When you can see the tomatoes are solf and liquid has thickened somewhat, add grated cheese, stir in and serve.

ROSEMARY Calder describes her dish:

"I have commented before on the Asian interest in texture in food. In A Guide to Chinese Eating, Kenneth Lo says of tripe: 'When it is well-cooked it has a firm squashy layer as well as its belly-like layer ... biting into a piece
should be like biting into a savoury jelly-cake." This recipe approximates the yum cha dish I remember with so much pleasure from a visit to Hong Kong."

RED-COOKED PIG'S TRIPE WITH GINGER

SERVES 4-6

500 g cleaned, uncooked pig's tripe (the tripe was probably lamb or beef)
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
6 slices fresh ginger, cut into julienne (this was modified to fine chopped in food processor)
4 spring onions, cut into 6 cm pieces
3 tablespoons dark or standard soy sauce
2 tablespoons rice wine
1 tablespoon sugar
pinch of salt
2 cups Chicken Stock
1 cup loosely packed coriander leaves (dried coriander was substituted- fresh being unavailable.)

Place tripe in a saucepan of water and bring to a boil. Simmer for 2 hours. Taste to see if it is nearly tender - it should still be al dente ( this was modified to - "Place in pressure cooker and cook for 5 minutes then allow to cool naturally") Drain and cut into strips 3 cm wide by 6 cm long. In a heavy-based pot heat oil and sear ginger and spring onion. Add tripe and toss to seal, then add remaining ingredients except coriander.
Cover tightly and simmer for 1 hour. The tripe should be very tender. Remove lid and increase heat to concentrate sauce, stirring to prevent ingredients catching. Tip into a heated dish and scatter with coriander.

Serve with rice or steamed buns from an Asian take-away. (Not on this occasion - serve with fresh baguettes or vegetables of choice).

NB: The source of this recipe is unknown but it is from page 724 of a book called "the cook's companion" - This may be Stephanie Alexander's book which appears to run to 800+ pages. We do not have a copy.

HERE is the recipe from Dan and Tracey Fitzhenry:

TRIPE AND OXTAIL IN RED WINE

Roughly chop approx. 500 gm tripe toss in seasoned flour along with 1 large chopped oxtail
Brown tripe and oxtail in heavy-based casserole
Add ˝ cup tomato paste
Add 1 large chopped onion and couple of large chopped tomatoes
Add liberal amount of dried or fresh herbs - e.g. thyme marjoram parsley.
Add 2 cups red wine and enough beef stock to cover ingredients
Place casserole in slow oven and cook for approx. 2 hrs.
Check seasoning and adjust to taste

THE Pullars' recipe was a variation of Italian tripe stew, similar to Sal's Calabrian tripe, but more traditional.

"The Italian tripe ragout is perhaps the best-known and most-loved tripe recipe after tripe and onions. There are numerous variations, but this one is our favourite, and always works:

ITALIAN TRIPE STEW

"We boil the thinly-sliced strips of tripe (a large "hood" of tripe) in milk for about half an hour, then set aside. Next, a handful of bacon, or, preferably, pancetta is lightly fried, then onion, garlic and some red chili added and sauted for a minute or so. Good white wine is added, about a cup, and some herbs of your choice - a bayleaf, perhaps a pinch of thyme or oregano or even some rosemary, plus some broad-leaf parsley stalks. All this is brought to a boil, and turned down to simmer. Next, some grated or julienned celery and carrot is added (about half a cup of each), and salt and pepper to taste. Finally the par-cooked tripe is added, the liquid adjusted with a bit of chicken or vegetable stock, brought to the boil and simmered until the tripe is quite tender, according to taste (some like a bit of texture, others prefer it almost gelatinous). Some tomato paste is added to thicken the ragou, then the dish is served piping hot with a sprinkling of parsley (or corriander) and some crusty bread. (But it should be soupy rather than thick and stewy.)"


 

 


 

 

 

 


 

 

 


 

 

 




 

 

 


Tripe lunch in Salvaotre Zofrea's
Sydney studio with his latest
fresco in the background

 

 

 

 


Rob Darroch revelling in Salvatore's Calabrian Tripe Stew

 

 

 


Tripe afficionados Mike Calder and David Rothschild at the lunch

 

 

 


Ginger Toms like tripe too

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



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